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Unbearable review of Orso

          OK, so Mikey doesn't like it! Orso's fabulous dÈcor does not fit to everyone's tastes, but those walls are not salmon colored (I have seen more Salmon than anyone safely should). They are more like a warm, burnt red. The look is actually a nice, contemporary Euro-American style that is not dissimilar from the restaurants that I have been to in Italy. It's too bad that Mike had such a lousy experience there. But maybe it was because he had shellfish, which, in my book, is suspect in any case. I was there last week and enjoyed the wonderful, fresh bread with the spicy bean and olive oil dip – very Italian. That was followed by the Chicken Fettuccine with killer garlic Alfredo sauce. And Mikey, honey, you ordered the wrong dessert. Tira misu has its place in some people's hearts, but I've never liked it. THE dessert that makes any trip to Orso worth it is their Molten Chocolate cake. A thick chocolate cake about 6 inches across is topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a nice drizzle of chocolate sauce. For crunchy contrast, chunks of burnt sugar brittle are artfully placed along the edge of the plate. A moment is needed to wipe away the drool, but when the cake is pierced with a fork, molten chocolate oozes out. It's better than sex.

Ellen Davis
UAA student


Orso review off track

           I realize the Northern Light newspaper affords journalism students an opportunity to "practice" their craft. With that consideration, I seldom protest articles. However, I find it necessary to respond to the restaurant review of Orso's because it was poorly crafted, partly vulgar and just simply lacked decorum. As a culinary educator, I am willing to make time available to help Mr. McQuillan with his next restaurant review.

           I could share with Mr. McQuillan some of the basic rules to heed when reviewing a restaurant. It was apparent from his article that he is unaware of such simple rules as dining at an establishment three times before drawing a conclusion. Also, on those dine-outs, take a different guest with you each time. I know it all seems tedious and expensive, but it has everything to do with objectivity, something that some readers expect of the press (also, please note that poorly crafted restaurant reviews, usually ones that aren't very objective, have ended up in court and restaurants have won). After the dining experiences, and before writing, be sure to do the research.

           One last comment. In reviewing a restaurant, one must also consider the clientele and how busy the establishment is. Orso is currently, by all accounts, one happening place! I think that obvious fact alone completely discounts Mr. McQuillan's review.

Timothy W. Doebler, CCE


Good paper: bad review

           I recently read Mike McQuillan's review of the Ristorante Orso on 5th Avenue. While I respect the right to an opinion and personal taste, I had to laugh when I read the review. Mr. McQuillan's criticism came across as unintelligent and purely "hick" Alaskan.

            Sourdough is commonly eaten in Italy and the humus and olive oil that is served with it is a special and unique touch that you cannot find elsewhere in Anchorage.

           The decor that he labeled as tacky is actually called "modern antique" and is considered classy. If Mike got out of Alaska once in a while, he'd see that most new restaurants in places such as Seattle, San Francisco and New York are setting these trends. The owners of Orso are trying to bring us upon the times and it's working – they are doing a ton of business.

           The prices are nearly identical to those of down home joints, such as the Sea Galley and Cattle Company – not exactly the epitome of style and elegance. Mike, if you want to be cheap, go to the Mongolian B-B-Q all you can eat!

            "I settled on a dish that I couldn't pronounce...." If Mike wants to really impress his girlfriend, maybe he can learn how to pronounce Italian. That way he'd be somewhat suitable to give an opinion on Italian food.

             I am simply a fan of a great eatery and a much-needed boost to our city's lack of culture and modern style. We're always stuck with options like "Lone Star," "Sourdough Mining Company" and "Gwennies." Finally we have a place that serves exclusive wines and doesn't cost as much as “Marx Brothers.”

           In closing, a food critic should know something about food before he criticizes and he shouldn't dock a great server's tip because he couldn't pronounce the menu. That is a reflection of a cynic reporter, not a good food critic. Mike's review is a waste of space in an otherwise good college newspaper.

David G. Taylor

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